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Sunday, May 11, 2014

It works for me!

After 3+ years of formulating my own condition I found a recipe that works for my thick curly hair.  But what do these ingredients do?

 



 

Hydrolyzed Oat Protein - A humectant to moisturize your hair. Since my hair already has volume I want a protein that is a film former to help retain my curls. Some other choices include silk, wheat, oat, corn, & soy.

BTMS - The heart of the conditioner! It's positively charged while our hair fibre is negative, therefore it clings to the surface of your hair.

Cetyl Alcohol - This boosts the effectiveness of BTMS. Both BTMS and Cetyle Alcohol are responsible for emulsifying our recipe.

Argan Oil - This is a new favorite of mine for curl retention. This oil is expensive and is commonly found in Moroccan oil hair care products.

Avocado Oil - Medium weight oil that helps with flyaway hair. (Sunflower is lightweight alternative)

Polyquaternium 7 - It's a conditioning agent and humectant that my hair loves.

dl Panthenol  - Brings in moisture and creates shine. Too much can cause your hair shaft to swell (volume).

Silicones! - There seems to be some controversy with these ingredients but it's my curly hair's best friend and I can not do without Dimethicone! This stuff keeps my hair from frizzing by creating a film on the outside of the hair. FYI Silicones are derived by sand!

Cetrimonium Chloride - This is the special ingredient to detangling your hair! You can't comb curly hair so this is a MUST!

Avena Oat Extract & Carrot extracts add moisture. Carrot extract is magic for my curl retention.



Heating and holding means heating the heated oil phase and heated water phase separately in two heat-resistant containers in indirect heat (like a double boiler) for 20 minutes at 70˚C or 158˚F. The 20 minutes starts when the ingredients reach the required temperature. Read more here.

Heated Phase

Pyrex cup in Pot 1
Water 67.5%
Hydrolyzed Oat Protein (H) 2%

Pyrex cup in Pot 2
BTMS (H) 4%
Cetyl Alcohol (L) 2.5%
Avocado oil (BB) 2%
Argan oil (BB) 3%

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After you mix the lotion well (click here for more information on possible mixing techniques), monitor the temperature until it reaches about 45˚C, then add the cool down ingredients.



Cool Down Phase

Polyquaternium 7 (H) 2%
dl Panthenol 50% Liquid (H) 2%
Cyclomethicone (and) Dimethicone (L) 2%
CETAC 30% - Cetrimonium Chloride (L) 3%
Avena Oat Extract WS (H) 2%
Carrot Extract (BB) 6%
Fragrance (BB) 1%
Phenonip (L) 1%


H - The Herbarie
L- Lotioncrafter
BB - Brambleberry

I use the Eatsmart Precision Pro Kitchen Scale for weighing the ingredients. My previous scale by another manufacturer only last a few months. I have had the Eatsmart for years without an issues.

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